Inwangsan Hike in the Rain: Seoul City Wall Trail to 338.2m

Stone tiger sculpture 눈와강국 호랑이 at the Cheongunde Park trailhead, the starting point for the Inwangsan hike in Seoul, surrounded by dense summer-green trees under an overcast sky

Inwangsan (인왕산, 338.2 m) sits less than 30 minutes from central Seoul by subway, and most visitors to the capital never climb it. They walk the palace district below and glance up at the granite ridgeline — and keep moving. On an overcast or rainy day, that is the most wrong it gets. Light rain … Read more

Bugaksan City Wall Trail: Hike 600 Years of Seoul History

SKKU Sungkyunkwan University side gate with dark granite monolith bearing a gold university crest and SKKU lettering, brown wooden fence alongside, lush green trees overhead, on the approach road to the Bugaksan Malbawi trailhead

Seoul has a mountain at its center that most visitors never set foot on. Not because it’s remote or difficult — but because Bugaksan (북악산, also known as Baegaksan/백악산) was sealed off as a military reservation for decades. The trail only reopened to the public in 2006, and the rules haven’t changed since: stay on … Read more

Jeju Olle Route 6: Free English Walking Mate Guide (2026)

Sunrise over the Seogwipo (서귀포) coastline, palm trees silhouetted in golden orange light in the foreground, a small volcanic islet and low hill visible across calm water, wispy clouds lit by early morning sun

Saturday, 9:30 AM, Soesokkak (쇠소깍). A volunteer in a yellow vest is already at the trailhead, talking with the first arrivals. Free program. English-speaking guide. No agency, no booking fee — just Route 6 and someone who knows every bend of it. That’s Walking Mate. Most foreign visitors spend a week in Jeju and never … Read more

Itaewon British Pub: Rose & Crown Fish & Chips

Bright pink three-story exterior of The Rose & Crown British Pub in Itaewon, Seoul, with Tudor-era portrait panels flanking the signage, wrought iron balconies, and pink-framed windows

Itaewon (이태원) is where Seoul stacks its international bars and restaurants into a few dense blocks. Most British-themed places in Asia hedge — the visual lands but the food doesn’t. Rose & Crown (로즈앤크라운) doesn’t hedge. The pub occupies the 2nd and 3rd floors of a pink building off Exit 1, and from the bar … Read more

Seogwipo Waterfalls Without a Car: Walk All 3 in One Day

Sun rising behind a rounded coastal volcanic hill in Seogwipo, palm tree silhouettes in the foreground and open sea visible to the left under a wispy golden sky

Seogwipo (서귀포), on Jeju Island’s south coast, sits at the foot of Hallasan’s southern slope where rainfall is heaviest on the island. The water drains off volcanic basalt and drops in three waterfalls within a few kilometers of each other. None of them require a car to reach. Seogwipo (서귀포) coast at sunrise Two of … Read more

Jeju Family Trip: Udo Island, Seongsan & Bijarim

White and purple ferry named 우도사랑 5호 docked at Seongsan Port with passengers walking up the boarding gangway, calm harbor water and overcast sky in the background

Days 2 & 3 on Jeju — Udo Island, Seongsan, and a Family Trip 20 Years in the Making This continues from Day 1. Four of us — my parents included — making our first return to Jeju Island (제주도) together in two decades. I had an itinerary. They had opinions. We split the difference, … Read more

Jeju West Coast Itinerary (Day 1): Hallim Park & More

Aerial view from a plane window showing Jeju Island's coastline and city spread below, the engine nacelle in the foreground, and a faint peak visible on the horizon under a partly cloudy blue sky

Twenty Years Between Jeju Trips Four of us — my parents, my younger sibling, and me — took an early flight to Jeju Island (제주도) on what turned out to be our first family trip there in roughly two decades. I put together the itinerary. The broad route runs west on Day 1, then east, … Read more

Boryeong Oyster Village (Cheonbuk): Winter Day Trip

Road approach to Cheonbuk Oyster Village under a clear blue winter sky, with a large yellow and red 천북굴단지 welcome arch spanning the road and pine trees lining the right side

A February Long Weekend in Boryeong (보령) The Lunar New Year holiday meant crowded trains, relatives, and the particular tiredness that comes right after an international flight. Rather than sleep it off at home, we loaded into the car and headed south to the Yellow Sea coast. Boryeong (보령, Chungcheongnam-do) is about two hours from … Read more

Where to Stay Near Hantangang Geopark: 3 Car-Free Picks

Arched rock cave opening above a turquoise plunge pool surrounded by dense green summer foliage, Pocheon, South Korea

The Hantangang River Geopark (한탄강 지질공원) is the kind of place that rewards slowing down. I’ve been to the Pocheon (포천) area more than once — the basalt columnar cave pools, the Bidulginang Falls (비둘기낭 폭포), and the Sky Bridge are each worth the trip on their own, but cramming all three into a rushed … Read more